Buntong's Cheap Eats

I've a funny story to share with all of you. Or wait, I think the right word should be ...... Frustratingly-funny story.

You see, Buntong in Ipoh consists of a predominantly Indian community (and to a certain extent; Chinese as well), famous for all sorts of cheap and delicious hawker fare, notably the famous Buntong Beef Noodles (here's a branch in Ipoh Garden South), Kacang Putih from Kampung Kacang Putih in Buntong (HERE's one of the outlet selling freshly fried Kacang Putih from home), and even Ipoh's outstanding Nga Choy Kai (Ayam Tauge or Poached Chicken served with Bean Sprouts & Flat Rice Noodles).

Deep in thought, and hands in perpetual chopping mode .....

But the one dish, that made Buntong stood out (and still does, in fact), is the Buntong Wan Tan Mee. Yup, coined as the 'heaviest' meal in the world (not calorie-wise, but the 'One Tonne' moniker), Buntong's Wan Tan Mee has been living its legacy for many years now, and recently moving back into its own premise, renovated and spanking new, but still on the same road. Jalan Sekolah in Buntong.

The name of the shop (or rather, stall, as it has always been affectionately known as) is Cheong Kee. Though I doubt the wan tan mee at Cheong Kee has garnered enough attention and limelight in comparison to Ipoh's Nga Choy Kai, Dim Sum, or even Chee Cheong Fun.

To cut a long story short, I went not once, not twice but THREE times; on different days of the week, and yet failed to sample the legendary homemade egg noodles with slivers of barbecued pork (Char Siew) and dumplings (Wan Tan). Tough luck .... First visit the shop was closed. Second visit was slightly better, as Cheong Kee was preparing for its erm ... RE-opening ceremony on the following day, after moving into the newly renovated premise. Okay ..... so third time's the charm they say?

Nope. Rotten luck clouded my hunt again, the shop was even closed for business on a Sunday night!!! (By the way, Cheong Kee Wan Tan Mee was ONLY opened for business at night, after around 7.30pm. Though I'm not sure of the current opening time after relocating)

Restoran Ayam TAUKE?! Not typo, but definitely easier to remember compared to Ayam Tauge .... is it not?

And there you have it. My pathetic wan tan mee hunt in Buntong. Faltered miserably, I might as well get their number the next time. But wait, I can't do that when they're NOT EVEN OPENED, right?! Geez .......

So on two of those occassions, I seeked solace in the forms of back up plans. First being the rather famous Ayam Tauge/Nga Choy Kai at Restoran Ayam Tauke (hehe, Chicken Boss?), on Jalan Guntong in Buntong. Location map to come later at the end of the post.

Smooth & VERY oily poached chicken, Hor Fun (smooth, flat rice noodles - an Ipoh specialty) in both soup and dry forms, and the crunchy & fat bean sprouts.

Typical Nga Choy Kai meals in Ipoh consist of 3 items. The chicken (poached, NOT roasted nor grilled), blanched bean sprouts (the Tauge), and the slithering-down-one's-throat-with-ease Hor Fun (flat rice noodles). They said it's the water from the limestone hills of Ipoh that 'fattens' the bean sprouts, and resulted in unbelievably smooth Hor Fun (or Kuey Teow, as it's commonly known in other states). Myth or fact?

Aside from the greasier than desired chicken (no thanks to liberal dashing of sesame oil), and the not-so-fat bean sprouts (used to the plump, juicy and crunchy ones from elsewhere), the meal was decent, at best. The Dry Hor Fun which was tossed with soy sauce, dark soy sauce and some sesame oil fared much better than the soup version. As I find the soup rather bland, instead of the usual sweet and flavourful version, from the chicken stock/bones/whatever-else used in boiling the clear broth.

Notice the restaurant is anything but one. You're actually dining in the compound of someone's house. Hahahah ..... So what?

Another surprising find, a stone's throw away from the Ayam Tauke Restaurant

Okay, so you may not be in favour of the bland, simple and some said 'over-rated' Nga Choy Kai in Ipoh. Fine, if that's the case, go jump building. ;)

Or not. OK, OK .... in that case, walk your stoned arse over to ANOTHER house next to the Nga Choy Kai, for some even cheaper, pedestrian food. The omnipresent, ever reliable, Liew Fun stall, also operating from a house. Guess the cheaper operating cost got people opening up restaurants, eateries and whatnots right smack inside their houses' compounds, huh?!

(Liew Fun = A term we Ipohans use to label the fishball noodles stall, serving a combination of noodles and Liew aka Yong Tau Foo)

The almost made for each other combination of noodles and "Liew". What's a "liew" you ask? It's Yong Tau Foo, or Stuffed Fish Paste.

Don't look down on this unassuming outlet. The throngs of people patronizing this stall piqued our interests, and we waltzed in after the initial disappointment of failed Buntong wan tan mee hunt.

You first walk over to the counter (or stall) where they're preparing the noodles and sides almost clock-work like, and pick your favourite pieces 'Liew'. Then choose a noodle of your choice, and the way you want it to be cooked, either in soup, dry, or in curry. They even serve Laksa on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only.

Hearty serving of Buntong Beef Noodles @ RM4.30.

Take note that when the crowd swells to its full capacity, the wait for your food may get tedious. My advice? Order some fried Liew, which requires no preparation. And munch/nibble/swallow/throw them at unexpecting customers or staff to vent your frustration.

The pieces of "Liew" were nothing spectacular, pale in comparison to the almighty Big Tree Foot @ Pasir Pinji, or even the astonishingly endless varieties at Kwong Hong in Gunung Rapat.

The beef noodles came in a rather big portion, with generous servings of tender beef, offals, and soft radish. The broth did not pack a punch as I preferred, bordering on being rather bland, but filled up the tummy rather well.

Location : Restoran Ayam Tauke @ No 849, Jalan Guntong, Buntong, Ipoh, Perak.

Tel No : 05-255 7469 or 017-5787251. Closed on Tuesdays. Opens only in the evening.

Location : Liew Fun Stall @ No 851A, Jalan Guntong, Buntong, Ipoh, Perak.

Closed on Wednesdays. Opens from 7-10pm.

Here's a Google MAP to both the places. Realise that both places are within walking distance from each other.

Meet The Floggers (Chapter 3) : Right Round Gunung Rapat in Ipoh

Third time's the charm they say. Thus, this 3rd instalment of Meet The Floggers will round up the saga nicely. Where else to conclude the chapters, but in my hometown of good old Ipoh itself?

Come early, else risk standing around waiting for empty seats @ Kwong Hong

Since Jason and Citygal were both back in Ipoh for an early Father's Day celebration (how filial!), I took the opportunity and dragged myself and Jason over to Gunung Rapat (Citygal's territory .... not mine. So NOW you know whom to call and ask for help in this area!) for that elusive Yong Tau Foo. OK, slightly exaggerated here, as the shop is in fact, ON the main road, in clear view, but me and KYT missed the shop not once, but twice.

Talk about lost sheeps. We might as well audition for a role in Lost; no artificial panicking necessary.

Yup, you're NOT seeing super-imposed images of Yong Tau Foo. They practically stuffed those fish paste into ANYTHING imaginable ....

This legendary shop was recommended by Citygal in an old post of hers, and recently mentioned by Alexandra as well. Been in business for a rather long period now, ask any Ipohan staying in and around Gunung Rapat, about that famous yong tau foo (or 'Liew', as we Ipohans call them) shop near to Gunung Rapat wet market, and guaranteed most would point you to the right direction. Probably 9 in 10, with the tenth being a blind.

The FRIED varieties - My preferred choice, of course.

The shop sells ONLY Yong Tau Foo, and a heck of a lotta choices at that. I lost count, but probably in the realms of 20 types? Or maybe more? From stuffed broccolis to baby corns, as well as brinjals and bitter gourds. Pick one of each, and risk over-indulging, which may lead to unnecessary take-aways at the end of your meal.

We skipped the noodles, initially, as there were way too many choices of Yong Tau Foo to be picked! But somehow relented, and ordered a bowl of noodle near the end of lunch.

Citygal warned, or rather, planned for a second meal back-to-back after this one. So we held our horses and restricted/straight-jacketed ourselves from going crazy at the counter. (Yup, you choose your favourite pieces, then order your noodles and preferred way of serving them).

But two hungry (and greedy + gluttony) souls could not comprehend orders that easily. With two bowls overflowing with Yong Tau Foo (one bowl arrived much later due to mixed up in orders ... I wonder, who would risk their lives stealing MY bowl?!!), we proceeded to chomp them down. But without noodles, the experience was somewhat lacking.

Just like sex without climax. =P

A sinful bowl of curry flat rice noodles (sar hor fun) with added 'paku choy'/paku-pakis/fern

Citygal recommended the curry noodles with extra greens, in the form of 'paku choy', a type of fern commonly stir-fried with belacan, and a staple of Malay cuisine. Weird combination, but worked wonders. Much like munching on kangkung (water convolvulus) in prawn mee. But the slightly 'kelat' taste (sorry, no direct translation here) may put some off.

A chilling bowl of Leung Fun aka Grass Jelly to tamper that heatwave

End that meal with a cool, chilly bowl of 'Leung Fun' or grass jelly in syrup, or any of their herbal tea of the day. The Water Chestnut drink ('Ma Tai Kang') was equally thirst-quenching as well.

The meal came to a mere RM17 for all 3 of us. Yup, including drinks. Every piece of Yong Tau Foo costs about 50 cents only. Compare that to Ampang's over-rated version at RM1 apiece, and you'll be chomping yourself over to Ipoh in no time. Though I still prefer the Pasir Pinji's Big Tree Foot's version myself, as I like my Yong Tau Foo fried. But Kwong Hong is certainly a healthier choice than most.

Location : Kedai Kopi Kwong Hong @ Jalan Gunung Rapat, Gunung Rapat, Ipoh. Map at the end of this post.

Kee Poh Laksa @ Kedai Kopi dan Minuman Kean Seng, Jalan Gunung Rapat

Next stop? A hop and a skip away (but of course, we wouldnt wanna risk dehydration, heatstroke nor falling into auto-napping mode after the meal at Kwong Hong, hence we drove!) is this very low profile, unassuming yet famous shop selling laksa. The renowned Gunung Rapat laksa, for that matter.

For Rm2.20, you get a bowl of goodness. Tangy, spicy, and yummy. To laksa-lovers, that is.

I'm not one who drools, begs my way through, nor hunts specifically for laksa. Not even in Penang, hence you'll randomly (or maybe never before) see posts on laksa in Motormouth From Ipoh.

Each piece @ RM0.50 again. Wow .... inflation clearly has NOT hit this part of Ipoh, yet.

But this Kee Poh Laksa (pronounced Kei Poh, not Kai Poh like I initially thought) is so popular with locals and tourists alike, I gotta see this to believe it! Or rather, taste a spoonful of the soup to believe the hype.

Comparisons to Penang's versions notwithstanding, this laksa can be considered delicious in its own right, with chunks of mackerel, onions, garnished with mint leaves and the compulsory (or optional, depends on your likes) spoonful of shrimp paste. But Jason commented the lack of julienned pineapples in laksa nowadays, something which I duly noted in other servings in other states, even Penang.

Location : Kee Poh Laksa @ Kedai Kopi dan Minuman Kean Seng, Jalan Gunung Rapat, Gunung Rapat, Ipoh. Opposite the Gunung Rapat wet market. Map to come at the end of this post.

And the treasure trove amongst the treasure troves, hehe ......

House number 177, Lorong Gunung Rapat 3, Gunung Rapat, Ipoh. What's hidden in there? Another famous Kacang Putih dealer?

Nope! It's the most traditional method of making Heong Peng (or Hiong Piah, or whatever way you recognize those famous biscuits from Gunung Rapat, Ipoh) @ Seng Kee Food Trading

When I was small, I was an avid fan of Yee Hup's Heong Peng. Not the current version commercialized and manufactured by the thousands, but rather, the true, original method of preparing these tasty biscuits; In HUGE clay ovens, ala making naan-style.

Then as time went by, Yee Hup grew from sprouts to branches, from branches to trunks. And the old way of baking this Hiong Piah has ceased, making way for modern way of utilizing ovens. But I tell you, the taste is so much different! Though marketed rather well, with people from outstation, even overseas falling head over heels in love with the mass-produced version.

Words cannot describe the combination of flavours, textures ... and memories these simple biscuits possess

Then Citygal miraculously saved the day! She brought us to this house on Lorong Gunung Rapat 3, numbered 177, for she claimed that the company (Seng Kee), STILL makes and sells Heong Peng, the traditional way!

Note that Yee Hup's previous production house (though not sure if they're still manufacturing them using the original method) is on the same road, in a house numbered 32 (if I'm not mistaken).

Delicious, addictive and crunchy Hiong Piah ... and the biscuit resembling Hap Tou Sou, aka Crumbly Walnut Cookie, but it's NOT.

As soon as I reached home, I tucked into a piece instantly. And memories from days of yore came flooding my palate ..... The coconut husks infused aroma (yup, they used the husks to roast the biscuits inside those clays), the smooth, almost flawless layers of pastry, and the sweet, chewy filling of molasses sugar.

I'm on to my last packet now. And still lovin' every single piece of it !!! ;)

Here's a MAP for all THREE places, combined into one. To get to Gunung Rapat, exit Simpang Pulai toll, and go towards IPoh town. As you pass by Sam Poh Tong caves on your right, go further until you can see the Drive-Thru McDonald's on the right. Turn right at the traffic lights BEFORE McDonalds with Klinik Bhajan at the junction. You'll turn into Jalan Gunung Rapat.

Ampang Homeland Yong Tau Foo @ Ampang

Still fresh from the yong tau foo (stuffed fishpaste) post yesterday, let me share another place in Kuala Lumpur, touted as THE place for yong tau foo; Ampang.

Situated in Kampung Baru Ampang, in the heart of Ampang town, are not one, not two, but THREE yong tau foo shoplots erected side by side. Hmm ... Confusing? =)

Tough to make a decision, we gauge the number of patrons, as obviously, the more the merrier, right? (And render the shop more trustworthy in terms of quality and popularity). However, that did not work, as all 3 outlets were packed, and counting the number of heads was not a feasible choice, given the blazing hot sun outside, and jam-packed seating area.

Step two, trust our instincts and spied on the food being served. Pretty tough as well, as all yong tau foo looked the same from afar, no matter how hard you squint.

Last resort? Ini-Mini-Myni-Mo!!! A-ha! Ampang Homeland Yong Tau Foo it is! Bearing the moniker AMPANG HOMELAND somehow sounded reassuring, right? Let's see ....

Fried Dumplings (Sui Kau)

They serve a variety of dishes, aside from the famed YTF, such as assam fish, pork with preserved vege, pandan chicken wings, and pork with vinegar. The fried dumplings were nothing special, though dipped in their homemade special chilli and sweet sauce, the taste was somewhat enhanced. The fillings was scarce, and the outer layer was not crispy enough.

Their special sauces, bottled and ready to be savoured

Mixed plate of Yong Tau Foo

And ladies and gentlemen, the **STARS** of the day. 10 pieces of their signature stuffed fishpaste, in all their glories, served with some spoonful of soup. Sad to say, nothing impressive. You can have them with rice, if you wish. The fishpaste was not what we expected, and the portion was skimpy, to say the least. The saving grace came in the form of the dipping sauces, yet again. Total : RM11.50 for the meal, including 2 drinks.

Later that same day, Tummythoz who's from Ampang, informed me that the third shop, named Foong Foong (or something like that) IS the shop to visit for REAL, delicious YTF. But only YTF is served, no extra dishes unlike the other two counterparts, or challengers.

Location : No. 622-C, Jalan Merdeka, Kg Baru Ampang, 68000 Ampang, Selangor. Tel : 03-42924712.

Kar Pin Eating Shop @ Jalan Bendahara, Ipoh

Grab a bowl, fill up with your favourite Yong Tau Foo pieces, then pick your noodle.

Short post today, as after attending two out of FOUR scheduled meetings this week, somehow had taken their toll on me. Yeah, although all that was required from us was some sitting around, yawning and pretending to be listening to the big shots. =)

Kar Pin Eating Shop (yup, loose translation of Kedai Makan I supposed) on Jalan Bendahara in Ipoh, has been around for some time. After undergoing renovation lately, the colonial building has transformed into a sleek, modern coffee shop with airy ambience.

Scrumptious looking pieces of fried Yong Tau Foo (50-90 cents/pc)

The shop's specialty, has always been their "Liu Fan", or fishball noodles. They do have an extensive range of Yong Tau Foo (stuffed fish paste) for choosing, but being my usual self, opted for all the fried versions as I prefer my fix being crunchy, savoury and oily (LOL) chunks of artery-cloggers. Sadistic? ;)

Dry Curry Low Shu Fun with minced pork

I chose dry version of low shu fun (short rice noodles) with some curry paste. Loved how they serve them garnished with minced pork and chopped spring onions on top. However, we found the Yong Tau Foo too cold for my liking. Probably not fresh from the wok, unlike Dai Shu Kiok, or Pasir Pinji's versions. Disappointed.

Location : Kar Pin Eating Shop @ Jalan Bendahara, right at the crossroad traffic lights connecting Jalan Bendahara and Jalan Leong Boon Swee. A nasi kandar restaurant (Majeedia, I think) is situated a few doors away, right at a corner.

Yong Tau Foo @ Pasir Pinji Big Tree Foot

Probably the name was derived from those BIG trunks?

A popular spot for quick, cheap and satisfying lunch among the blue collars, this stall coined as "Dai Shu Kiok" literally translated as Big Tree Foot, is located behind Tuck Kee Restaurant in Pasir Pinji.

Wide array of fried yong tau foo (Zhau Liu) at 50-60 cents each

Not to be confused with THE other stall (now a shop) at Jalan Prince, Pasir Pinji (click HERE for my previous take on those yummy fried goodies), this stall has a following of its own, normally crowded during lunch hour, although the hygiene factor of dining under this shack is slightly compromised. But for a taste of good food, throw your caution to the wind for once. =P

Pick your favourite pieces, order their laksa/noodles, sit down and wait to be served ...

Recently, a coffee shop has opened next to this shack, with a stall selling the same stuff. Though having your meals inside the shoplot with cooling fans is tempting, I was not sure the authenticity of the yong tau foo, thus, ended up trusting my instinct and paying this same stall a visit. (Would love to hear what you think of the new stall, Jason. Hehe)

Mixed Fruit Ice (RM3.50)

The 'Chap Guo Ping' (Mixed Fruit Ice) came in a HUGE jug, enough for sharing. With lots of fruit bits added, and lychee syrup poured liberately over the shaved ice, this is heaven-sent on a hot, sunny day.

Low Shu Fun (Rice Noodles) with Dry Curry

You can order laksa, or other types of noodles to go with their stuffed fish paste (yong tau foo), OR you can just pick your pieces and eat them on their own. (Good when you're in a rush, and you do not wish to wait for the noodles)

The main characters themselves. Enough said.

The fried variety got my vote, as I've always have a strange bias for fried stuff. The fish paste used was homemade, and the pieces are not miniature in size, but rather stuffed to the brim. Highly recommended is the Fried Stuffed Sar Kok (Turnip). But really, go for anything ... they're all good.

Watch out for the lunch crowd, as you may have to queue up and brace the wait. Parking may be a hindrance, as the allocated parking spots are rather limited, forcing most to double park by the roadside.

Location : Behind Tuck Kee Restaurant, which is located at Jalan Tokong, in Pasir Pinji area. Nearby there is also a good 'dai chow' restaurant named Wong Kok.

Pasir Pinji Fried Yong Tau Foo

Finally got a shot of the place, but sadly, no signboard in English

BIG succulent pieces of fish paste

Forgot the shop name la... but it's at a crossroad opposite another coffee shop, previously owned by the deceased Tai Kau (Big Dog), as he was fondly remembered. Last time it was under some trees, and attap roof only. Quite hot in the afternoon, but ppl thronged the stall for laksa, fried 'liew' (yongtaufoo),fried chicken Poh Lee, & refreshing array of drinks (Wan Tau Long-dunno translation la... Ai Yi Ping Jelly?)

Now they renovated, and moved into a shop with ample seats, and lots of new stalls. The rojak still stays, as is the Fried "Liew" stall, but the rest dunno where they mushroomed from.

Each piece is STILL 50cents, and fried on the spot. On weekends noon, be prepared for long queues. I chose to go earlier, roughly before 12pm, to be able to choose my fav pieces, rather than simply choosing leftovers/the same type of newly fried batches. Their fish paste is VERY tasty, and lack the typical processed fishy smell.Portion is quite generous too. You can opt for noodles/laksa to go with the Liews, but normally i dun, to save time, haha ....

Location : (If anyone needs directions, I would try to help la ... but i think its quite famous liao)

UPDATED! : It's at Jalan Pasir Pinji, 31650 Ipoh. The opposite shop's name is Sin Seng Kee Coffee Shop.