Chinatown, Bangkok - Night and Day

From previous chapter of Best Pad Thai, Lamphu House & Khao San Road .....

Complete with neon lights, gaudy architectures, cabs plying the route non-stop, and tuk-tuk terrorizing the streets .... Bangkok's Chinatown lights up come sundown.

Chinatown (or Yaowarat Road) is a part of Bangkok that's rather famous come sundown, aside from the perennial favourite of many (hehe); Patpong. But of course, for all the RIGHT reasons, as opposed to the RED light district aforementioned. ;)

T&K Seafood Restaurant @ Chinatown - With the cheerful workers all decked in GREEN. Such nature lovers these Thais are .....

Thanks to sc, we managed to manoeuvred our ways to one of Chinatown's best offerings, the seafood restaurants. We took a cab from somewhere around Khao San Road (we were fresh off the river taxi ride from Wat Arun) to Chinatown, telling the driver that we were on the prowl for seafood at Chinatown. And hey, no perfect Engrish necessary, as Chinatown (or better known as Yaowarat, referring to the name of the road) is well-known to locals and foreigners alike. 100baht/RM10 per way, and don't try to bargain unnecessarily. (Trust me, I did and nearly got rolled over at Chinatown!!)

Tangy tangerine juice, sweet coconut juice fresh from the shell, and the condiments - sweet, sour and fiery

There are two VERY prominent seafood restaurants in Chinatown, by the roadside. But of course, you can choose to sit inside, with air-conditioning in times of near-heatstroke. One of them being T&K Seafood, with workers all decked in lime GREEN T-shirts, while their stiff competitor wears RED, directly opposite of each other, named Lek & Rut. At each other's throat or not, I don't know. But one thing for sure, both outlets were packed like sardines the moment we were there for dinner. And it wasn't even a weekend or public holiday.

Juicy, succulent LARGE prawns barbecued @ 150baht/RM15

Most impressive dish in their repertoire is their BBQ seafood, from crabs to prawns, and fish to squids. Fresh, succulent supplies grilled to perfection, retaining most moisture, and freshness. The prawns for one, reminded me of our very own Tanjung Tualang's BIG-headed river prawns, only a little larger at T&K. From 150 to 300 baht per serving. Very juicy, sweet & fresh. Smokey flavour imparted from the grill, the prawns can be eaten plain or with the accompanying dipping sauces. One being the sweet Thai chilli sauce, another was the slightly sour & spicier green chilli dip.

Fried Meat Crab with Yellow Curry Powder @ 300baht/RM30

The crabs cooked with the thick, almost gelatinous curry powder and beaten eggs fared not too well though. The curry paste being a little overwhelming and rich, while the crab (only one, for we ordered the small portion) was nothing to shout about. (300baht for Small, 350baht for Medium, and 400baht for Large).

Oyster Omelette/Or Chien @ 100baht/RM10

Unlike sc's version, this one did not come on a bed of bean sprouts, but instead akin to the average fried egg omelette commonly found everywhere. Not crispy at all, with meagre servings of oysters. Served with a sweet chilli sauce. Forgettable.

Steamed Squid with Garlic, Lemon Juice and Chilli @ 150baht/RM15

Fortunately, the steamed squids fared so much better. Springy, fresh squids complemented perfectly by the zesty sauce. Almost resembling the type of gravy used in steaming fish, Thai-style.

Tom Yum Seafood @ 100-150baht/RM10-RM15

The Tom Yum came brimming with fish slices, prawns, squids, mushrooms and such. Surprisingly not spicy at all, given the country's notorious fiery dishes. Maybe because it was Chinatown? But the combination of flavours worked wonders, especially paired with the fluffy white rice.

See the small, confined seating area? In fact, there are FIVE storeys to T&K, climbing the steep staircases endlessly til you find an empty table!

The meal was priced at 1035 baht/RM103, including drinks for the four of us. Reasonable, but not dirt-cheap. But still, with prawns, crabs, and squids all present (albeit in small portions), it's a steal, really.

Location : T&K Seafood Restaurant @ 49-51 Phadung Dao Rd, Chinatown, Bangkok.

Tel No : (02) 223 4519. Opens daily: 4:30 pm – 2:00 a.m.

(info taken from sc's blog HERE)

Hop over after dinner, for some cooling desserts .......

Chinatown in Bangkok's not only famous for the seafood, but also for the many shops selling cheap bird's nest soup, shark's fins soup, as well as outlets selling typical Chinese dried goods.

Sweet, cooling and soothing .... who cares if they're real or made from jelly? :)

We passed by Nam Sing, a few shops away from T&K Seafood, and instantly drawn to the two shoplots, air-conditioned restaurant serving shark's fins and bird's nest soups. Of course, at Chinatown, you can savour a full bowl to yourself, at almost dirt cheap prices.

The accompanying ginkgo, red dates and longan in syrup

At Nam Sing, we were served with cooling chrysanthemum tea the instant we sat down. Welcomingly refreshing, given the hotter than ideal weather in Bangkok right then.

The bird's nest is segregated into 4 different classes, with 1st class being the most pricey (1000baht/serving!), and the 4th being cheapest (200baht/bowl). We picked the 3rd class (hehehe, being 3rd world mentality and all?) at 300baht/RM30 per bowl. Enough to be shared amongst two, served with sides of either longan, or ginkgo nuts in syrup. A lovely end to the meal, and call it placebo effect if you would; We felt soothed, refreshed, and radiant almost instantly. LOL.

Location : Nam Sing Bird Nest @ 39-47 Soi Texas, Phadung Dao Road, Yaowaraj, Bangkok, Thailand. Various other branches elsewhere, even in Pattaya, and Hong Kong! Opens from 9.00am - 2.00am.

Daytime in Chinatown .... a little lonely, but not without its charm

Then one fine morning (after we've moved to a boutique hotel in town - more on that in later posts), we've lost all opinions on where to have our breakfast. Sure the omnipresent 7-11 was tempting, with cheap hot dogs, burgers, pizzas and buns, but we practically had them for breakfast almost every single day during the last trip, 3 years ago.

Wat Traimit in Chinatown, still under construction it seemed

So, for something completely out of the ordinary, we ventured to Chinatown for some good old dim sum breakfast. Yup, read that right. Dim Sum in Bangkok. We were near locos, nearing the end of our trip. Side effect of over-paranoia (no thanks to H1N1)?

Temples at almost every corner in Bangkok. Nothing to do after meal? Let's Pray! Enough of shopping and walking around? Let's Pray! ;)

But dear taxi driver was probably not very familiar with Chinatown area. As we requested to stop at any good dim sum outlet, and though he nodded, we alighted from the cab directly in front of a hotel. Or sorts. And thinking "Wah .... so posh meh ... go hotel's dim sum restaurant?!" Only to be shamed as the hotel does not permit entry to outsiders. Whoops.

A corner lot at Soi Sukon in Chinatown, serving typical Chinese hawker fare.

And so, round and round we went on foot, desperately seeking for a dim sum place to satisfy our hunger. We woke up rather late that morning, since it's a Sunday after all.

But to no avail. Most shops were not even opened that early, and directions from the locals ain't helping at all.

Chicken Rice, Popiah, Pork Noodles and Pork Congee for breakfast -Simple, yet effective

Thankfully, as the locals spoke Mandarin fluently around the area, one lady guided us to Soi Sukon for breakfast. Or wait .... that has to be brunch, by that time.

A very old and classic coffee shop, it reminded us of Penang's typical kopitiam, with several stalls all around, lining up to satiate the hunger pangs.

We had some hawker grubs, particularly memorable was the porridge with pork meat balls, and a raw egg, and the unassumingly-delicious popiah (julienned vegetables + pork slices wrapped crepe-style, served with a sweetish sauce).

This uncle was even featured in the papers! Frying some Or Chien/Oyster Omelette

Nice, crispy edges gave the Or Chien some crunch, with lots of bean sprouts, chives and coriander. And of course, plump oysters. But if I'm not mistaken, mussels were used instead.

The Or Chien/Oyster (or in this case, mussels) omelette was scrumptious, miles better than the one at T&K. A little greasy, but negligible given the extra crisp in exchange. No wonder the uncle was frying the omelette non-stop that morning!

The meal costed a mere 193 baht/RM19.30, for everything including drinks.

Location : Corner shoplot No 342 (facing a corner 7-11 Store), on Soi Sukon 1, Samphantawong, Bangkok, Thailand. Here's a Google Map of the place.

Sweet, sweet Bananas on a High !!!

Ever heard of roasted bananas? They're sweet, they're filling, they're cheap, and they're everywhere in Bangkok !!! Located in front of a 7-11 Store, opposite the aforementioned No 342 Coffee Shop.

And that wraps up the Chinatown segment of our Bangkok 2009 getaway .....

Famous Ah Leng Char Koay Teow @ Jalan Dato Keramat, Penang

Really, really exhausted from today's work. It's routine, yup, but the lethal combination of arduous journeys, winding roads, the torturous climate, and the incessant waiting rendered us almost incapacitated for the hours spent down south. It's been some time since I've been ranting, so let me be ...... or else.

If you're wondering what's so 'leng' (pretty) 'bout the Char Koay Teow (CKT) seller, you are in for a shock! ;)

OK, I digressed. Sue me. Hahaha .... I'm certainly in a sarcastic mood today. And thankfully it's raining as of now, hence all sins washed away !!! Thanks be to the ones above ...... or something.

An almost perfect plate of Char Koay Teow @ RM5.00. Additional RM0.50 for duck egg to be used instead

Thanks to CK, Ken and Lingzie, I got very, very specific directions to this famous CKT stall situated along Jalan Dato Keramat in Georgetown, Penang. Normally, we just whizzed past this shop without even noticing its existence!

Yup, all 4 years of my life spent in Penang, and not even on one solitary occasion we noticed this place. Kinda pathetic eh? Or put it simply, I was merely too careful when I was driving, to be distracted with sights and sounds, or glancing around; 360 degrees. Hehehe ... yeah right.

A plate of Ah Leng's SPECIAL Char Koay Teow (more prawns, and addition of mantis prawns!) @ RM9.00, additional RM0.50 if duck eggs are used.

Choking yet?

So, this unassuming coffee shop, or "cafe" (very loosely used term here) named Kafe Khoon Hiang houses only 2 stalls. Or 3, but I can't be bothered to remember as of now. There's an economy rice stall, and Ah Leng CKT stall, which is opened from morning til afternoon only. Seems like they closes on Thursdays (info from PenangTuaPui's site).

Penang's version of CKT has always been the BEST amongst all the other versions in the other states. Or country, for that matter. Notice the singular 'country'? :)

Ah Leng's version is brimming with ingredients, from the usual suspects (prawns - REAL plump ones, cockles, and egg -chicken's/duck's, chives and bean sprouts) to the rather unusual (but most welcomed, of course!) mantis prawns (lai liu har or he ko). Of course, extra ingredients at extra charge. No free lunches, OK?!

Looks rather rundown, is it not? Don't fret. You'll notice a steady stream of customers in there. And rest assured you won't be required to line up and carry your own plates!

Tastewise? The flat rice noodles was fried with plentiful of 'wok hei', aka 'breath of the wok' (sounds like some cheap kung-fu saga, no?) The quick frying/tossing techniques of the cook, plus the skilful handling of the heat from the stove, resulted in a most pleasing plate of delicious Char Koay Teow. Only in Penang, folks. Hard to replicate at home. ;)

Location : Ah Leng Char Koay Teow stall @ Kafe Khoon Hiang, Jalan Dato Keramat, Penang. Here's a MAP.

Here's those who have succumbed to Ah Leng's CKT ...... PenangTuaPui, VKeong, Makankings, Lilian, and many, many more. (Do drop me a msg if you've blogged about Ah Leng's CKT, but no links here)

On another note : Guess what the Uncle's slurping? ;)

Penang Hawker Food : Sin Wah Char Koay Teow & Kheng Pin Lor Bak

So, what's for supper, after going Japanese at Azuma? Some cheap and delicious street food, of course !!!

Sin Wah Char Koay Teow @ Pulau Tikus Market

Penang is synonymous with great hawker fare. From the perennial favourite, Laksa, to Char Koay Teow, and Hokkien Mee (Prawn Mee to you and me) to Lor Bak, it'll be a sin to die from hunger on the streets, and laments regarding "limited food options". Admit it, people throng the island for the FOOD, more than anything else.

Sinful enough? With cockles, prawns, duck eggs, bean sprouts, chives, and crispy pork lard .... all for RM4 flat

OK, so the image of Char Koay Teow in Penang may have been marred (or worshipped, depending on whether you're on the receiving end of the malicious treatment!) by some of the most arrogant, and over-priced stalls selling the nearly 'Gourmet' edition of the simple hawker dish, up to the realms of about RM7 per plate. Sooner or later, a plate of CKT in Penang at RM10 would be the norms, with additional 10% service charge (that is, IF you're not required to carry your own plate anymore) and 5% government tax (for the immense number of plates sold per day, they could be driving Royces/Porsches amidst the maddening Penang traffic!).

Anyway, one of my favourite CKT stall in Penang at night is Sin Wah Char Koay Teow, located at Pulau Tikus Market, off Jalan Burma in Georgetown. I paid a respectable number of visits to this place as the variety of food, the atmosphere (epitome of "street food!"), the crowd, and the price allowed a not-so-well-off public university student with a bottomless pit to binge without regret. :)

Teo Chew Chai Koay from Kim Leng Kee @ 50 (or 60) cents each

Of course, the uncle manning the stall may have an attitude of his own. And his staff as well, for that matter. Ordering any number of plates of CKT will net you an intimidating glare, and grumbles about the estimated waiting time.

"Have to wait 20 minutes one. Still want or not?" ... or when the crowd's not so thin; "Half an hour wait one woh, very long. Do you still want to wait?" .... or when the crowd's practically sitting on each other's laps : "Either you starve to death and wait, or buzz off ordering something else lah!"

Of course, I made the last one up lah .... He has yet to attain the Gold Medal in "The Laws of Arrogance" yet, amongst the CKT community in Penang. But a bronze may be hanging from his neck, for all I care.

Nonsense aside (hehe, it's Friday, so I'm a little off ... understandable, right?), the CKT was bursting with 'wok hei' or 'Breath of the Wok' (sounds soooo much like a Kung Fu sequel wannabe), fried with high flames, and lots of crispy pork lards for extra cholesterol. And flavour, nonetheless. The prawns, squids, and cockles completed the package, earning top marks in my books. You can choose between chicken's egg (RM3.50) or duck's egg (RM4).

Let's say you do not wish to smother your already glossy lips with the oily plate of artery-clogger, no frets. Solution's at hand in the form of Teo Chew Chai Koay, with fillings of either yambeans, or kuchai (Chinese chives). But they DO pan-fry them before serving, hence if you wanna avoid the grease, hold them off.

Location : Pulau Tikus wet market, at night only. From town to Pulau Tikus using Jalan Burma, you'll reach a police station on your RIGHT. Turn left into Jalan Moulmein, between two coffee shops (one's named Kwai Lock, which I blogged before HERE on their Roti Babi), and you'll reach a T-junction. The market's to your right, but it's a one way road, hence turn left and park anywhere you like.

Kheng Pin Cafe @ Penang Road - An old timer ...

The next morning, initially planned for breakfast at Joo Leong in Bayan Lepas, popular for their toasts with runny half-boiled eggs. But the previous night's booze session (hehe ... fresh from Langkawi, no less) had us dozing off at 4am, waking up a little later than desired. The next best option? Brunch at Penang Road instead.

Hainanse Chicken Rice (RM4), Wantan Noodles (RM4) and Century Egg Porridge

Kheng Pin Cafe on Penang Road possesses a certain charm, with history running way back into the olden days. Probably one of the few original coffee shops on Penang Road (Kek Seng's a good candidate), the place is still buzzing with activities (eating lah ... what else?!) on a weekday's morning/afternoon.

The Hainanese Chicken Rice has a lot of patrons, serving plump, tender chicken with fragrant rice. Not the best, yet the portion was more than sufficient, and better than most out there.

The spicy Char Koay Teow

The Rasa Malaysia food guide listed two stalls in Kheng Pin, in their recommendation. One being the Char Koay Teow stall, frying up a commendable storm with the fiery CKT, complete with the usual package sans the squids ala Sin Wah's.

Almost legendary .... or might I add, God-like status of the Lor Bak stall

But the other recommendation came in the form of Lor Bak, or mixed fritters from all meats/vegetables/etc possible. The popularity of Kheng Pin's Lor Bak transcends borders, races (except Malays, of course, it's NON-halal), and appetites. Perfect as accompaniments to a meal, or light snacks during tea break, you'll be spoilt for choice from the endless display of choices available. From the usual to the slightly out-of-the-ordinary such as fish, chicken, sweet potatoes and yam, the owner will be glad to recommend their signatures, or put your trust in him to mix and match the choices and the amount for the number of people specified.

A platter of goodies @ RM11

For the four of us, he fried on the spot : The pork rolls (Lor Bak), prawn fritters, batter-fried chicken meat, spring roll, and century egg. Served with some slices of cucumber and pickled ginger slices, the selection of fritters was spot-on, and pleased even the most demanding palate (guess who? NOT me .... =P)

The accompanying dipping sauces of sweet/spicy chilli sauce and the sticky dark sauce

Location : Kheng Pin Cafe @ 80, Jalan Penang, Penang. Opens for breakfast til about 3pm only.

Here's those who had been mesmerized by Kheng Pin's Lor Bak : What2See, After Giovanni, Allie, Penang Tua Pui

Staring right through ya !!! Who says Beggars Can't Be Choosers?! (A scene at the Kuan Yin Temple on Jalan Masjid Kapitan Keling)

Happy Weekend Everyone .....

Tung Koo Thing aka Aneka Selera - Where Everything's Under One Roof in Ipoh

Lazy, rainy Saturday evening. I'll let the photos do the talking, instead of the usual (motor)mouth's rambling on and on ....

Hahaha ... both scratching in tandem. Confused?

Place : Aneka Selera aka Restoran Kam Wan aka "Tung Koo Thing" aka Mushroom Stop ?

Address : Erm, this one's tough. But here's something to assist. Got MAP !!! Although seriously, ask any Ipohan, or any foodie from outstation where the famous "Tung Koo Thing" is, and doubtful they won't know. Unless they've been living under a shell. Or a rock.

Whoops. I'll shut up. =P

Deep-fried Squids (RM8)

Cheap, fresh and succulent squids. Sadly, the batter did NO justice to the seafood. Tasteless, relied heavily on the chilli sauce. Go for their shells and crabs instead.

Deep-fried-til-damn-crispy-yet-tasteless Mini Baby Crabs (RM5 for small)

From the Lor Bak stall. Perfect as accompaniment for beer, or light snack. Though artery-clogging culprits, no less. If only they're saltier ....

Tom Yum Beehoon (RM4.50)

Toned down for the general palate. Not as authentic as the REAL deal. Yet works in some ways ... With generous ingredients (the usual suspects) thrown in for good measure. Won't fire up your belly, yet piquant enough to be interesting.

Popiah (RM1.60 each)

Bigger than usual, the Popiah stall is directly opposite Meng Wa Seafood stall, somewhere in the middle of the food court. Not too shabby, though the wait may be daunting. She took her own sweet time preparing these babies.

Wan Tau Long (Ai Yee Bing) Jelly with Ice (RM2, I think)

Wash it all down with some cooling jelly, with self-served squeezed lime for that tangy hint, and lots of shaved ice to numb that aching tooth. Refreshing.

OK, happy weekend (or whatever that's left of it) everyone!

Of Nine Emperor Gods Festival, Curry Noodles & Pancakes, Anyone?

Ouch. Going back to work after a pleasantly long break was tormenting. Both Physically (strenuous position in front of the pc all day + dragging myself to my feet at an unGodly hour of 6.40am) and Mentally (the brain's working ultra slow the whole day ... absorbing less, but definitely retained lesser).

Iron Lady flipping her fingers. I meant, her pancakes. =P

Ever heard of the Nine Emperor Gods Festival? In Cantonese, "Kow Wong Yeh" festival, a 9 days extravaganza celebrated by Taoists in the 9th lunar month, depicted by the famous Red Tortoise Buns (scroll to the end of the post for the pics), devotees praying at the temples and going vegetarian, as well as frequent rain throughout the nine days. For Ipohans, the Tow Boo Keong temple is located at Jalan Tokong, Pasir Putih.

Every year, we never failed to flock to the aforementioned temple at least once throughout the nine days. This year was no difference, though my initial plan to pray on the 1st day itself was somewhat thwarted by the dastardly food-poisoning spell.

Peanut and Corn Pancake (RM1.30)

Hence I went on the second day. The crowd was surprisingly not as congested as I've expected. Thank goodness. Previous years' experiences revealed the hidden sadistic nature of humans in their attempts to scar me with incense, and the jostle for placing them on the altar often resulted in burnt hole in my shirt, or scorched skin.

Lunch in Pasir Putih area is an easy task. Everywhere you turn, there's bound to be a restaurant, or coffee shop. The famous Tuck Kee Restaurant, Big Tree Foot's Yong Tau F00, and various other gastronomic delights attract customers from near and far.

Tuna + Onion + Cheese Pancake (RM3.70)

We opted for lunch at a restaurant along the road connecting Jalan Kampar and Tuck Kee Restaurant which is situated on Jalan King. Sorry as I'm not sure of the exact location. But coming from Jalan Kampar (Jalan Raja Permaisuri Bainun) towards Pasir Putih, turn left at a junction where MAXIS Service Centre is located. Tim Shun Loong Restaurant is along the road, before you reach Tuck Kee and Dai Shu Geok (Big Tree Foot) on your right.

Many patrons ordered the pancakes from the stall at the front of the shop. Manned by a lady, she was fast, though rather un-friendly. Her apom pancakes can be filled with many combination of ingredients, from the sweet to the savouries, not unlike Penang's famous AKI Pancakes.

Pie Tee (RM3.00 for 6)

The Tuna/Onion/Cheese combination was wonderful, cheesy and rich, with delectable chunks of tuna. Though my gripe was the pancakes were rather small in portion. We had the Pie Tee (or Top Hats), a famous Nyonya snack with fillings of yambeans, wood ear fungus and carrot strips, garnished with fried shallots. Crispy and light, they serve as good appetizers.

Lou Shu Fan (Rice Noodles) with Yong Tau Foo (Stuffed Fish Paste)

A sinful bowl of Curry Vermicelli

Dry Curry Hor Fun (Flat Noodles)

The wait for the curry noodles was daunting. Possibly the crowd at the restaurant was on the heavier side, being a public holiday and all. But was the wait worthwhile? Hmm, not one of the best I've tasted, but still passed the mark for decent curry noodles. Especially when tonnes of cockles (>10!) were served, in addition to char siew (BBQ pork meat), siew yoke (roasted pork) and even 2 deep-fried wantons. Around RM3.50 per plate, if I remembered correctly.

Witness the power of the gluttons!

Various stalls selling the same stuff - Red Tortoise Buns, and Lotus paste Buns

Rows after rows of Red Tortoise Buns

Some may lament the lack of fillings or taste when it comes to the Red Tortoise Buns, but I'm accustomed to the soft, fluffy and slightly sweet dough, especially when freshly steamed. Of course, you can be creative and dab some kaya, butter, or even cut them into pieces and fry them with some eggs. Yum. A pair for RM1.70-RM2.0o.

The festival only comes ONCE a year, for a mere 9 days. Go on, get a pair of the fluffy stuff before it's too late ...