Motormouth Bids Hanoi Goodbye - The Finale

Continued from Halong Bay - Kayakking and Snake Wines ....

Little Hanoi Restaurant @ 9, Ta Hien Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. Tel : 04-9260168

I promised the finale will be arriving soon, didn't I? After the 117th chapter, and months and months of procrastination (and subsequent infection with the lazybug), finally ... ahem, FINALLY the Hanoi posts are coming to an END.

Phew. Probably you're heaving a sigh of relief as much as I am doing now. On second thought, maybe not. =)

Ya got some cash to spare? The Collage of Cash. From all over the World.

Back from the night stay on the boat at Halong Bay, we checked into Hanoi Blue Sky Hotel once again, for the very last night in Hanoi. Wow .... a week just flew by, and work's starting in 2 days!!! OMG. Why holidays seem shorter than workdays? Beats me.

Very, very dark ambience. Cozy, but poor lighting = bad for photographs

After resting our limbs and joints, we heeded the hotel owner's advice on a restaurant over at Ta Hien street, within walking distance from the hotel. Little Hanoi's the name, serving up authentic Vietnamese dishes in an air-conditioned setting. A quaint little cafe of sorts, with a branch across the lane. Why they chose to open a branch within walking ... no, make that 'spitting' distance? Beats me. Again.

Grilled Pork with Citron and Chilli, Caramel @ 50,000 VND/RM10/USD2.90

Strange name for a dish, therefore I ordered this. Only to realise citron = LEMONGRASS!!! Alamak ..... my most feared dream came true.

Luckily, the taste of the dastardly plant was far from overwhelming. In fact, the grilled pork strips with lemongrass and chillies, then sprinkled with sesame seeds, was rather tasty and oozing with flavour. That's where the caramelized part originated, probably.

L-R : ??? (sorry, lost the receipt), Mixed Spring Rolls (30,000VND/RM6/USD1.70), and Grilled Aubergine (40,000 VND/RM8/USD2.30)

The spring rolls were nothing extraordinary, resembling most of the fried stuff we had on boat, and in Sapa. But the grilled aubergine (eggplant) was sweet, and savoury at the same time. Realised that most Vietnamese restaurants serve brinjals/eggplants in their menu.

Fried Noodles with Seafood and Vegetables (55,000 VND/RM11/USD3.20)

The lightly stir-fried noodles with seafood and assorted vegetables was fresh, crunchy (from the various greens) and delicious. The noodles used was of the thin, 'king noodles' aka 'Wong Dai Meen' kind. But not the cheapest option, that's for sure.

Fried catfish with Dill and Spices (55,000 VND/RM11/USD3.20)

But the best dish of the evening had to be the fried catfish with dill and spices. Served with lots of caramelized onions, chopped dill and spices, the catfish fillets were lightly-coated with batter, and fried to perfection. The tender and succulent fish fillet reminded us of the catfish spring rolls we had at Highway 4 a few days earlier. A must-try, if you ever step into Little Hanoi, or its sister outlets elsewhere.

On the whole, the food at Little Hanoi was average at best, with some hits and some misses. With prices slightly higher than the average street fare, this place is best for tourists longing for a comforting meal, with a soothing ambience to boot. And Little Hanoi even boasted on its listing in Lonely Planet.

Don't look up. Lest you want your eyes to get criss-crossed from all the wires.


Scooping niftily into each glass, she worked with such charm

While the gals were busy doing what they do best (read : shopping), we wandered over to a shop serving nothing but sweet desserts, in the form of 'Che', or mixed ice dessert.

A glass at 10,000 VND/RM2/USD0.60 only

The concoction was refreshing, albeit slightly out of place amidst the cold weather. The ingredients in the glass? Colourful, sweet and chewy items. Sorry as Motormouth forgot about itemization when seated on those low stools, threatening to break one's back after a hard day's work. I mean, walk.

Aiks! Anyone can translate?!!! Maybe got the influence from our very own ABC?


'Oc' or snails, boiled to the delight of the masses.

Where even the most sane female would go Ga-Ga over. And over.

Wondering what they're digging into?

THIS. Thit Bo Kho @ Beef Jerky Salad @ 10,000 VND/RM2/USD0.60

At this corner lot (not even a lot, it's by the sidewalk) facing the lake at the northern end, many people were squatting by the pathway, seated on the small plastic stools, tucking in with much gusto. Thit Bo Kho. OK, the green light was given, as no 'CHO' in the name. Cho = Dog's meat, in case you're wondering.

But it was here that I learned a tough lesson. A very, very memorable one at that. Since people always say "Do what the locales do, if you're not sure of a certain custom in a foreign country", I ordered a plate of whatever the guy next to us ordered, and proceeded to inspect with caution. OK, the plate of greens and herbs was topped with slices of beef jerky, from fat cuts to lean ones, and crushed peanuts. So far, so good.

Then of course lah, being an obedient boy (hehe), I followed suit whatever the guy was doing. He squeezed a liberal amount of chilli sauce from the plastic bottle placed conveniently on the floor within reach from every patron.

The chilli sauce looked harmless enough, more like garlic chilli sauce from Kampung Koh, at most. But boo-hoo-hoo. NEVER underestimate a chilli sauce from any Asian country. One minute I was jokingly teasing, joking and laughing about, the very next I was breathing FIRE !!! My throat was scorched, I was choking and instantenously, my hand shot up and ordered a glass of, what else? Whatever drink the guy ordered. Though this time I had to put my faith in him.

Some random sights at the eastern side of the lake

But credits to be given where they're due, the salad was a fresh mix of raw vegetables, with various herbs, and the grilled beef jerky reminded me of our very own Char Siew, albeit slightly drier. And remember to hold the chilli sauce, or spread it thoroughly, before popping a whole mouthful of them firecrackers.

The only lighted structure in the middle of the lake

Trang Tien Plaza @ the southern part of Hoan Kiem Lake

The temperature was at an all-week low, even colder than Sapa at night. And me wearing mere short pants and slippers wasn't helping one bit. I felt out of place, as the Vietnamese were all brandishing winter wear, or at least sweaters and jackets. While us Malaysians were still revelling in our summer, and strolling around in shorts, t-shirts and such. Such arrogance, eh?

One of the Best spot for a cuppa hot coffee, overlooking the lake

It was very chilly, with strong wind blowing every few seconds, and I practically shivered and hid behind every tree, lamp post, and whatnots that I stumbled upon. Yeah, and a full bladder ain't helping at all. There was NO public toilet in sight, hence I trudged my way over to Trang Tien Plaza at the far south end of the lake. A requeim from the freezing weather, and of course, succumbing to nature's call. :)

Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre @ the Northern end of the Lake

Hanoi Guesthouse bought the tickets to the water puppet show for us. Two types of seats available, at 40,000 VND/RM8/USD2.30 or 60,000 VND/RM12/USD3.40. We were given the former, as the better seats (nearer to the stage) were all booked by tour groups that day. And notice that the guesthouse bought the tickets for us IN ADVANCE. Hence early booking is highly advised. We asked for the later show, as we feared we could not make it in time, after all the shopping and dilly-dally-ing.

The Best chapter throughout the show.

Showtime was at 9.00pm (10.00 pm Malaysian time); rather late, by their standards. Happened to be the last show for the day. Do take note that the water puppet show is presented in Vietnamese language ONLY, no translation, though you'll be given a brochure listing the skits in various languages. Comprehension may be hard, but the main point was to embrace and appreciate their efforts in reliving what could be the main form of entertainment back then. Many may find the show boring though. But refrain from snoring, OK?

The cast of the 1 hour show. Wonder how they protect their permanently wetted feet.

We were drained after the show. The cold weather was rather discouraging, and we flagged any taxis in sight. Though at that hour, not many were willing to fetch all 6 of us in one cab. But we succeeded, and sped to our rooms in record time.

After a while, hunger pangs struck, at the most unGodly hour. But with a gleam of hope, half of the entourage ventured bravely down the streets of Old Quarter, at about 11.00pm (12 midnight M'sian time). Lo and behold, not only were most streets unlit, almost all of the shops and stalls were closed, or on the verge of closing for the day. Tough luck. We turned around, with tails between our legs (hehe), and fell into a deep, deep slumber ......

Goodbye Hanoi. Will there be another trip? ;)

And that's officially, a WRAP, folks. Take a bow now, it's curtain's call. 7 Days of Odyssey to one of the most interesting destination in Asia. The hellacious motorbikes, the trail of gastronomic delights, endless revelations and discoveries, historical monuments/ornaments/figures, and last but not least, the many faces and personalities of the Vietnamese people.

For the complete saga, please click http://j2kfm.blogspot.com/2009/03/motormouth-survived-hanoi-turns-one-yay.html and proceed from there.

Motormouth Bids Vietnam .... Tam Biet.

Halong Bay - Kayakking in the Morning & The Infamous Snake Wine !!!

Continued from Halong Bay - Of Caves, Grottoes, and ALMOST Frost-bitten ....

1) Who cares if the bench is worn, weathered a storm, or battered?

2) Awaken 'forcefully' at 6.30am (7.30am Malaysian time) for some "Rowing Exercise" ...

The night was spent on the boat, a very chilly sleep, yet very fruitful and comforting. Electricity was shut down in the middle of the night, until the next morning. There was simply no place for fans or air-conds, as the temperature was really low.

When all the lights were off, hindrance came in the form of toilet break in the middle of the night. Whoops. Amidst the pitch black atmosphere, one can only wander around aimlessly .....

3) Breakfast on boat - The soft, fluffy bread was a pleasant surprise

Kayakking was on our itinerary, whereby we were ferried to an enclave of sorts, a plank housing boats for that morning's activity. Two to a boat, in case you're wondering.

No picture was taken during the wandering part, as for fear of being wet, I left my camera in the boat. But the supposedly one hour odyssey took a bit longer than expected, no thanks to the energy-less ones (we have yet to take our breakfast), and lack of directions from the guide. We rowed to the opposite end before realising we were off the track. Hmm .... Highlights include kayakking through a cave of sorts, to a secluded 'lake' where we rested for a few minutes and soaked in the cool morning breeze, and calm waters.

4) Where the 'transaction' took place .... or more like 'trafficking'


5) A mess? Clash of the Junks.

After breakfast, we were hurried to pack up, and 'check-out' from our rooms. Though lunch was still some hours away, they had to clean the rooms, and prepare for the next batch of guests. It was a rush, especially when the water pressure was low, and showering was tedious.

Then we waited at the common area, while our boat proceeded to a station when tourists who stayed on land (those who chose to stay at the village, instead of on the boats) hitchhiked on our boat, travelling back to the pier together.

6) One destination, one goal.

7) That interesting cleavage.

8) The foggy weather + Numbing wind = Only the Brave on the Deck

9) The sheer number of boats was staggering

10) The Hungry Travellers



11) Lunch @ Thang Long Restaurant - Where ALL the other tourists on boats or land ate in a jubilant mood, a sense of camaraderie in the air when we shared tables, and dishes. Drinks NOT included, btw.

12) Dare Me to Drink? - Ingredients include snakes, birds (+feathers!), lizards, etc

13) Eyeballs gauged, and skins intact .... do you have a Heart of Steel?

14) Goodbye Halong Bay ......

to be continued ..... (for the very last chapter, I promise !!!)

Halong Bay, Vietnam - Of Caves, Grottoes, & ALMOST Frostbitten

I know ... I know. It's been nearly a month since I blogged about my Hanoi trip. Yup, I'm easily distracted, plus the repeated visits to Langkawi had me reeling from all the travelling. The icing on the cake? Food poisoning right after the 2nd trip to Langkawi, no thanks to either the Nasi Kandar meal in Penang, or the dinner of mild-looking Economy Rice in Ipoh. Obviously, the booze and the chocs can't be the culprits, can they?!!

A case of over-binging, I supposed. But on the road to recovery now ..... Hence I'll write a short post on Halong Bay .(Erm, short in my dictionary may mean excessive rambling in others, so do take it with a pinch of salt! Hehehe) So, here goes ....

View from the top deck of our boat

After the satisfactory lunch (dismal from a discerning foodie's standards, but me being a Motormouth aka garbage bin, I walloped every single strands of fibre and every piece of flesh from the nameless fish, with MUCH gusto!) on the boat, we were transported to some caves, an obvious tourist spot, with many other junk boats docking.

Every hill, every grotto looks like what YOU imagine them to be. Much like clouds.


Dong Thien Cung - Reminded us of Ipoh's caves aka the legendary Sam Poh Tong, Kek Lok Tong etc. But with added glamour in the form of colourful spotlights!

Being a tourist attraction for the masses, aside from the need to climb some flight of stairs, one does not need to rock-climb, abseil, nor crawl underneath some treacherous structures. Though some adventures would be fine, given the cold weather, almost to the point of numbing our senses. No joke, it was midday and some Westerners on the same boat were already shivering and hiding in the cabin, whilst we were having a whale of a time on the top deck.

Surreal right? Especially if you listen to the tour guide's explanation and descriptions of the structures in the cave!! ROTFL, more like it! :)

Just look at the number of boats docked at the port, and you'll realise the cave is one of the must-see when one visits Halong Bay. Entrance fee was covered by our package (USD33/pax)

We visited two caves on the site, Dong Thien Cung and Hang Dau Go. The latter required no guide, as the cave was rather small and dark, with not much attractions. But with more perilous trekking, though not to the point of being dangerous.

In and around our 'home' for the night

Our room for two. Of course, you're not seeing double (triple?), as we were lucky enough to be granted a bigger room on the second level, instead of the lower level.

The rooms are twin-sharing basis, all rooms at the lower level of the boat, but a bigger triple room on the second level, also known as the common level where we had our meals. The beds were clean, with comforters, and attached bathrooms. Note that electricity is only available from late evening onwards, as then only they'll start the generator. Meaning to say, you can only bath in hot shower, as well as charge your phone/camera from late evening until nighttime. But, once everyone's back into their rooms, at about midnight, they'll shut down the generator, and it's PITCH BLACK all the way til morning. Do take note, in case you're intending to charge your electronics overnight.

#Hint : Avoid rooms near to the generator on the lower level of the boat, as common sense would tell you it's akin to sleeping next to a buzzsaw. #

The fishing village (?) where we made a pit stop again.

LARGE mantis prawns. But at RM50 per kg UNcooked, we thought twice. :)

Here's where you can purchase FRESH seafood bred on site, from the average fishes/prawns/squids to some extraordinaire marine animals. You can buy the fresh supplies here, bring them back to your boat, and ask them to cook for you.

In for the kill. No, not the sharks ....

The other boats will dock here for the night as well. The water's calm, no ripples nor waves to throw you off a good night's sleep!

Back on the boat while waiting for our dinner to be served, we sat back and relaxed, soaking in the breeze(and the non-existing sunlight!), lying on the reclining chairs to pass time. Yup, the weather was freezing cold, but the windy weather was comforting, an escape from the scorching hot M'sian weather.

Dinner on the boat - Seems like the fries are HOT in Vietnam, eh? Must be the French's influence!

Pitch black on the outside. And the chilly breeze had us shivering in our ... erm, pants?!

LOL. I wonder what would the foreigners think had they climbed up to the top deck!! =P

At night, there wasn't much to do, except playing cards, chatting in the cabin, or reading a book. But the some of the cabin crew were smoking (!!) in the common room, hence we had to avoid the smoky, stagnant air, and braced ourselves (yeah, 'GREAT' idea ....) against the numbing temperature. We cuddled ourselves up, trying helplessly to warm our frail bodies, hiding behind whatever structures that were available up there. Tough luck.

But it was indeed, a humourous yet memorable experience; Us squatting behind chairs, poles, and water tanks, with intermittent shrieks and chattering teeth everytime the wind blew. LOL.

Good night ... and slept tight, rocked by the gentle waves.

Next morning's itinerary? Kayak-king at 6.30am (7.30am Malaysian time), breakfast on boat, and lunch on land. Then back to Hanoi for the last night in Vietnam .......

(To be continued .....)